We Have Chimneys!

Progress has seemed a little slow lately. Long story, but part of it is that they’re working on the front façade and cornice and they have mesh over the scaffolding, so we can’t really see the progress until the mesh is down so it feels like not much is getting done when there is actual progress being made.

One thing that is done are the chimneys. We’re not using the old chimneys. They were in really poor condition, were only ever made for gas fireplaces (too small for a wood burning fireplace), and they were on an exterior wall – which is a no-no since cold chimneys don’t draft well.

So we have a new fireplace in the living room (only) on the opposite wall from the originals and we’re putting the chimney up through each of the rooms above that as an exposed pipe…

exposed chimney pipe on exposed brick wallWe could have framed it out and put sheetrock around it, but that amount of sheetrock on an exposed brick wall would have looked weird and it would have taken up more floor space than the bare chimney does. It’s a little unexpected, but looks pretty good…

When you get to the roof it comes up the required 10′ over the roof…

Fireplace chimneyThat picture is sort of also a gratuitous pic of our skyline view (you can click to see a slightly bigger version).

Speaking of the fireplace it’s one of the few things we might have done differently if we had it to do all over again. Given that our place is a 15 footer the fireplace takes up a lot of width in the living room. Our couch doesn’t really fit right – we’ll have to design around it. And the fireplace will dominate the living room. If I were doing it again I’d probably go with a smaller gas fireplace. Still, it will be nice on a cold winter night to sit by a raging fire…

The chimneys / vents for other stuff are also now complete…

Venting going through roof of rehabbed towhouseGoing from left to right that’s 1) the rather huge exhaust vent for Dan’s art studio, 2) the plumbing vent, and 3-5) bathroom vents, boiler chimney, and hot water heater chimneys (not sure which is which). It’s a lot of stuff, but it’s gotta be there… You can also see the drain pipe for the front portion of the roof snaking past the vents.The roofer will be by soon to clean all of that up and make it water tight.

Picking A Color For Our Cornice

One of the things we’ve been contemplating lately is the color of our cornice. We thought we had a color picked out, but as I was half way done writing up this blog post I changed my mind. When I talked with Dan he agreed with me – that we should change our strategy.

It all started with me walking around Mount Morris Park taking pictures of townhouses for real estate clients – with the objective of understanding what was out there and possibly available. I looked at the cornice colors and my favorite color was gray – it just makes for an incredibly handsome cornice. Here’s the gray cornice from 30 West 120 which sold recently for $2.5M

gray-brown corniceTo my eye that’s a bit of a brownish gray. There are also some handsome gray cornices at the other end of our block – 102 and 104 West 123rd both have gray cornices…

gray cornicesAs you can see 102 (on the left) has more of a taupey gray and 104 has more of a bluish gray. Personally I don’t really like the bluish gray so much. I like a taupey or brownish gray..

What we’re worried about when it comes to using gray is that our façade will have too many different colors. Our windows will be a chocolate color, our stoop railings and the grill work on basement level will be black – gray wasn’t really a color we were going to have anywhere else except the cornice, so it didn’t really make sense. The places we liked that used gray used it elsewhere on the building.

The chocolate is sort of tone-on-tone with the brownstone façade. We could have gone with a chocolate cornice… Those look good too…

chocolate colored corniceBut the color we’ve decided to go with is black…

black corniceThat means our building’s hat (cornice) will match it’s shoes (stoop railings and basement grill work) while the windows and basement doors will just blend in with the brownstone. The only down side is that it will be a pretty somber/formal color combination.

The one remaining question is the color of the front parlor doors. Dan’s advocating for chocolate colored doors with the logic that all the wood on the façade should be the same color. I could see that, but I could also see black since that the façade’s accent color is black and the parlor door is a focal point of the façade. We’ve got some time before we have to make that decision. I’m guessing we’ll go with chocolate – it will soften the look and make the façade seem less formal.

New Doors vs. Old (Salvaged) Doors

We have very little in the way of original details. The only place where we have original details is on the front façade. Our goal is to have a pretty traditional exterior and a completely contemporary interior.

The main front door to the house (parlor level) has been a big question mark. Initially we were going to do a completely contemporary french doors with a transom over them, but the NY Office of Historic Preservation nixed that idea because they see the front door as one of the most important parts of our entire house. So we opted instead for recreating the original doors. Fuzzy picture of our front doorThe problem with that was the picture to the right was only record of what our doors might possibly have looked like – and it’s a rather fuzzy picture and of our neighbor’s place, not ours. Also, it appears the door was originally all wood but we want some glass in our door. We figured if we tried to recreate the panel pattern, that Historic Preservation might let us get away with having some of the panels be glass instead of wood – but that was a gamble.

I always had using doors salvaged from another townhouse as an option in the back of my mind. We had been to Demolition Depot last year and I had seen doors that seemed like they’d work. They needed to be restored, but they were more or less the right size.

Dan was skeptical – he was convinced things at Demolition Depot would all be in horrible shape or we wouldn’t find the right size. I got him over there the other day to “look at how old doors were constructed” and luckily the doors I had seen last year were both still there. We took our contractor over to look at them and he’s game for using them. I also checked with historic preservation and they said it’s OK to use an old door – though we’ll need to submit an amendment.

Old townhouse door we'll be restoringThe top contender is the door to the right. It’s the perfect size – 48″ wide, 119″ tall. It’s also in relatively good shape – though someone did cut a huge mail slot through the door at some point, but recently we’ve been thinking we’d go with a mail slot in the door instead of a mailbox – so the mailslot is OK with us.

It’s also got glass – which we’re really happy about. Now there’s no problem with historic preservation about having glass in the door.

The plan is to restore it and put new beveled, leaded glass in it. It should be pretty spectacular when it’s done. The question is whether to paint it or stain it. Dan really wants it stained, but I don’t think that’s practical. I think the repairs will be too visible if it’s stained. I think the way to go is to paint it.

Here are some more pics of it that we took – you can see the details a bit better as well as what the inside of the door looks like… (UPDATE: Now, newer, better photos…)

The bottom (exterior) of the old door we bought for our brownstoneInside of an old door from a Harlem browntoneBottom detail of the inside of an old door from a Harlem brownstoneI love all the detail. I just don’t think we would have gotten that level of detail if we had had a new “replica” door built.

Alternate door to be rehabbedThere is an alternate door we like as well. it’s an inch and a half wider – so we’re not completely convinced it would fit. At a minimum we’d probably need to trim it down. The windows on it start lower, which would be nice since it would let in more light, but I sorta like the detail on the other door better. Plus this door seems to be laminated – probably a thin layer of something like mahogany over oak. The laminate could prove to be difficult to restore. And if you’re just painting it when you’re done it’s not really important whether it’s mahogany or oak. Still, it’s also a very cool door…

All in all I think it’s sort of exciting to give old doors a new life. One of the principles of historic preservation is to not introduce “fake original details”, but clearly there’s an exception when you’re using doors another similar building in your neighborhood. Also, I think the decision might have been different if other of our sibling townhouses still had their original doors. Since all of them lack their original doors, there’s no continuity problem.

One thing I should mention… The old doors aren’t as airtight as new doors would be. One decision we made a while back was to consider the vestibule to be exterior space. We’re going to insulate the walls of the vestibule as if they were exterior walls. That means the main doors can leak as much air as they want and it won’t affect our heating/cooling bills. The interior set of doors will be proper, factory-made, contemporary doors that will be airtight.

It looks like we’re also going to get some balusters for our stoop railing from Demolition Depot. Unfortunately they don’t have the railing to go over them – so we’ll have to have that fabricated.

UPDATE: The one I mentioned as the “top contender” is the one we purchased. The size appears to be absolutely identical to what was in there originally – it’s a bit uncanny actually. Now we have to figure out the mail slot, the door knobs, the locks, etc…

ConEd Says EIGHT MONTHS To Get Gas/Electric Service

Today was not a good day. The ConEd guy came by and said it could be as much as 3 more months to get gas and electric service. We’ve already waited 5 full months – so that means 8 months to get utility service. That’s absurd.

The first five months was because ConEd refused to install their part until DEP had installed the new water main connection. Word to the wise – just flat out lie to ConEd and tell them you’re using the existing water main connection. The water main sub contractor will be under the control of your contractor – just get them to dig carefully. Also, a good idea is to put the new gas and electrical connections as far away from the water main connection as possible – it will minimize the chance that ConEd’s stuff will be disturbed.

But the rationale behind the additional 3 month wait is just retarded. Apparently ConEd only has one contractor working for them who’s got clearance to dig up streets in New York. There’s another contractor lined up but someone is dragging their feet signing the paperwork to get that contractor going. Meanwhile the first contractor has a backlog of 70 to 80 jobs, hence the 3 month wait.

But it gets worse… ConEd’s budget for installing new electrical/gas service is nearly exhausted. There’s no money at ConEd to pay their contractor to do the installations. What properly run business doesn’t have the money to start up new accounts? That just boggles my mind. They have to spend the money sooner or later and the sooner they do the installation the sooner they make money off us.

Needless to say, I blew up. 8 months is insane. The ConEd guy said he couldn’t start our 3 month wait because the electrical / plumber hadn’t put in the new sleeves (holes in the wall). So I was all over the electrician asking why they weren’t done yet. He said they weren’t done because he said ConEd said they wanted to wait for the water connection to be done. So I pushed further – why not just put them in anywhere (they could always be redone)? Then the electrician and the ConEd guy both tried to say they had to wait to see where the water connection came through the wall. I wasn’t having that excuse – the water connection came through EXACTLY where it had been before. Nothing changed.

Then I was all over the ConEd guy – if he knew it was a 3 month process why didn’t he say something to that effect earlier? Why not get us into the queue months ago? Why do we have to wait 5 months to start on a 3 month wait? If he had put us into the queue at 2 months we would be at the top of the queue now and everything would be fine. After waiting for 5 months we shouldn’t be told we have to go to the back of the queue.

When it was clear the ConEd guy was at fault, he said he needed to go to another appointment and he just turned and left. Nice. He causes us major problems and can’t even say ‘sorry’.

I should stop and say that as much as I rag on the bureaucracy at City agencies, our experience with DEP to get the new water connection was nearly flawless by comparison. Despite a hurricane doing a direct hit on the City, DEP managed to get us a water connection two weeks and two days after we got final signoff from DOB. Kudos to DEP!

The only silver lining to all of this is that the additional 3 month wait won’t hold anything else up. The electrical and gas inspections can be done without electrical or gas service. So we can close up the walls, etc. Still, it’s a bit insane that we won’t get electrical and gas service until right before we move into the building. Pretty much the entire job will be done off generators. Hopefully there won’t be freezing weather before we get gas and electric, since we’ll need those for heat to stop the pipes from freezing.

So there is something worse than the NYC Department of Buildings… ConEd…


Update #1 (that night): I’ve filed a complaint with the New York State Public Service Commission Office of Consumer Services. They have a handy online form you can use to make complaints against utility companies. We’ll see if it helps.

Update #2 (the next morning): Dan called the guy’s boss and left a message and then the boss called back a half hour or so later and said he had talked to the guy several times about us this morning. I think after I blew up yesterday the guy realized he had to do something. They’re now on top of things and are going to make sure there are no delays. The boss reiterated what I had been told that 3 months is a worst case scenario, but he didn’t say what the average wait time is. If it’s 2+ months then it’s still the same problem. We don’t know whether he’s aware yet of my complaint to the public service commission. But our strategy at this point is to be a very squeaky wheel that can’t be ignored.

Don’t Put Closed Cell Foam On Brick

We’re using closed cell foam for insulation on all exterior walls and in the roof (which also has rigid foam). If you’ve ever been on a boat and seen foam cushions that have a smooth shiny surface to them – that’s closed cell foam. Open cell foam is more like a sponge. Closed cell foam doesn’t absorb water, but open cell foam does.

When our architect spec’d things he said there should be a moisture barrier between the foam and the brick wall. Here’s his detail…

insulated brick wall detail drawingNotice his note for a “continuous moisture barrier”. Basically “moisture barrier” is a fancy term for a sheet of plastic – there’s not much high tech about it.

Well, when the contractor started framing the walls he didn’t put up the moisture barrier. He hadn’t really noticed it in the drawings and on other projects the moisture barrier had gone on the inside of the studs – between the studs and the drywall. We tried to push back, but wound up giving in. Since closed cell foam is a moisture barrier we said he could skip the moisture barrier if he wanted to.

Not putting the moisture barrier in has turned out to be a bad decision on the part of the contractor. He had the insulation subcontractor in today and she said the brick will absorb the equivalent of 1 1/2 inches of closed cell foam. So to get 2 1/2 inches of depth she has to spray 4″ of insulation (which means she’ll charge for 4″ of insulation).

I also worry about what all that absorbed foam will do to the brick, so I’ve asked the contractor to put the moisture barrier in. It won’t be very easy now that there’s all sorts of plumbing and wiring in place, but it sorta just needs to be done…

So word to the wise – if you’re using foam insulation, put a moisture barrier over your brick before you start framing the walls.